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Color sense really isn’t my best skill. Right now I’m working on an art project where I need to come up with color palettes for individual items, consisting of at least three or four colors each, and I’m struggling.

While I’m very interested in color and can see minor gradations in it, I find that I am mostly drawn towards very basic combinations when required to put them together. You can see it in my dress sense; while I think I’m pretty good at putting together outfits that look nice, they are almost always limited to just a few tones. I’m lucky that I look good in most colors and do wear a wide variety, but in any one outfit I gravitate towards one vibrant shade with a few neutrals, or various shades of all one hue. Like, teal with black and white, or various shades of oxblood with dark gray. It looks fine, but often it’s more interesting and sophisticated to combine several bright colors that compliment each other in unexpected ways. I also do this in my costume design, where I assign a general color to characters and otherwise only permit them neutrals, and often default to obvious palettes like red versus blue.

I’d like to get better at that, particularly since I think it would suit this project, but it’s hard. Right now my strategy has been to Google combinations and see what other people put together, hoping for inspiration. Maybe this kind of research will help train my eye so that I can get better at coming up with these things myself. Anything to not just default to a bright with two neutrals, or lots of tone-on-tone.
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Took another crack at this doll design. I drew another Monster High croquis to slightly alter the costume idea.

I tried the first thing that occurred to me, to make the “overdress” into kind of like a bustle corset, similar to the sort sold by Pendragon Costumes here.



But I found once I’d drawn it, I didn’t like it as much as I thought I would. The outfit looked unbalanced. I considered doing a back view to draw it as more of a vest with tails, but I didn’t like how the patchwork skirt looked without the overdress to tone it down. So I erased and tried again.



Here I extended the skirt full-length again, but widened the gap. I think I like this better; you can still see most of the elaborate patchwork while still feeling like she’s wearing an overdress. I kept the bustle, but I don’t know if I need that with the longer skirt. I picture her as a simple forest-dweller, and probably wouldn’t wear that kind of frippery.



Here’s the new version with color. I kept the color scheme from the original draft, but changed the hatband to match the patchwork skirt. I think I’m sold on using the mint-green doll and giving her red hair. I also seem to have made the skirt longer, though I still want it to stop at the ankle— that makes sense for wandering through the woods. I also drew her hair significantly shorter, but I think I prefer the longer length in the earlier picture.

I’ve been gathering supplies to make her for a while now, and I think I have everything I need. The paint, the fabric, the tools. I’ve got a doll I can prepare, though I haven’t done it yet. The only thing I should probably do before digging in is draw a plan for her face. I’m excited to try that, as I’ve seen many doll artists do it and it looks like fun. But I want to go in with a plan in hopes of doing a better job, and coming up with something that suits the character in my mind.
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I keep wanting to work on a doll customization project, but I guess I’ve been a bit hesitant to really dive in. Recently I saw an ad for a really cute combination of a brown tweed dress over a quilted patchwork underskirt, and while it isn’t the sort of thing I’d wan to wear, I thought it would make a fun outfit to make for a doll. So I decided to see if it might help me get started to draw a design for a doll I could make, an adorable cottagecore witch.

I decided to look up for a reference image to make a Monster High croquis, or a sketch used for fashion design. I copied that image by eye:



Then I did a pencil drawing of the outfit. As I said, it’s very inspired by a Linennaive ad, specifically the brown tweed over the homey patchwork. In my version, I want to see the underskirt more, as it will be visually interesting and probably a fair bit of labor to make. So I created a sort of double-breasted wrap design that would split open in the front. A witch hatch with a kinked crown and granny boots complete the look:



Then I experimented with color. I wanted her to have big, unruly curls, and I thought red would work well with the rest of the imagined color palette. I’m thinking the patchwork will be whatever scraps I have in my fabric, but if I can keep the tones pastel that would look nice with the warm brown of the dress. I haven’t totally settled on what base doll to use, but right now I’m leaning toward an old G1 Monster High Frankie Stein. I think the mint green skin would work with the rest of the palette.



I asked Bernie for some feedback, and he said the underskirt was so interesting, I might want to show even more of it. It made me think instead of an overdress, she could have a brown tweed vest with a bustle in the back, and just show all of the patchwork. I might like that even better, and it would take it farther away from its original inspiration. He also suggested using the patchwork on the hat band as well.

I think I might do another draft before I actually try to make her. But I think she could shape up into something really cute.
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When I was in college in the mid to late 2000’s, I made a point of learning how to dress better. I read a bunch of style blogs and started digging through thrift stores to build up my wardrobe. (This is how I learned to get so good at thrifting.) I’ve tried to keep up that thought and care in the years since, at least on days when I’m teaching or expecting to see somebody— though I’ve been a little slacker when it comes to rehearsals.

One big recommendation I saw a lot in that process was to wear pashminas. Those are long, wide fringed scarves made from the wool of the pashmina goat. They were everywhere at the time and I collected a fair number. At first I gravitated toward the solid colored ones, as I thought they’d be more versatile. But I actually had an easier time coordinating the patterned ones with outfits.

I still wear those patterned ones, especially in the wintertime. I like the texture of the wool, and i like that they’re wide enough to keep my neck warm. These days there are really only four I wear regularly— this gray and black one, a green and gold one, a rainbow gradient one, and a black and beige one. I also had one in black and shades of brown that I left somewhere and lost, much to my annoyance. I still have other, but they have been mostly repurposed into costuming, or in some cases, packing china used as props in Mrs. Hawking.

I notice that people don’t seem to wear them so much anymore. Even as scarves to keep warm. But I still like them; I think they’re cozy and and a nice way to add visual interest to an outfit. I wear them even when it’s not cold out sometimes. I probably look kind of dated in that way, honestly. My aesthetic is still somewhat frozen in the early aughts. I only stopped wearing bootcut jeans last year, and I still have a fondness for low-rise waists, bare midriffs, and hip-slung belts. But I enjoy them and like how they look, especially when I’ve always found it difficult to dress warm in a way that looks good on me.
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Lately I've felt I've had a hard time dressing day to day in a manner that feels like me.

I know the theory of how to dress at this point. Just after I graduated college I made a point of figuring out how to present myself in a slightly more grownup and stylish way, and I have studied costume design enough that I'm familiar with the ways clothing is used as communication. From my day to day, I pretty much always look nice, put together, and with a little bit of taste. I really, really hate when I don't look good, so even in casual situations where I want to be comfortable, I endeavor to be at least a little considered and to avoid anything unflattering.

But lately I've felt a little dissatisfied with how I've been presenting myself. My clothes have felt like they don't really reflect the image I want to put forth. I feel like this often happens to me in winter, that the need to keep warm makes me layer on items that I don't really want to wear.

I've always had certain style preferences. I have always been attention seeking, and want to be seen as hot even in situations where that is probably not appropriate. I'm pretty attached to appearing thin, and conventionally attractive to men. I like showing a little more skin. I prefer classic styles to trends, but not to the exclusion of looking current. I love blacks and other neutrals but do not want to default to them. Those have been consistent even as I've evolved, learned more about dressing, and had different situations to dress for.

Lately, if I'm honest, the image I want to put forward these days is of a woman that men want but are slightly afraid of. When I settled on my current hairstyle— a bright pink quiff with the sides shaved —I found it looked best when I dressed either harder-edged to match it, or in HIGH FEMME styles that strongly contrasted with it. Those, I think, tend to serve my intended effect. Less declarative looks don't work as well with it— T-shirt and jeans, even the collar shirts and sweaters that I've been sticking to as work wear in cold weather.

Today for tutoring at Bunker Hill with rehearsal afterward, I wore gray skinny jeans, black suede Pumas, and a navy ribbed sweater with a tiny diamond earring and necklace set. I look... fine. But not really how I want to look. I like the shoes, jewelry, and pants, actually— I finally transitioned to skinny jeans after years of wearing bootcut even though they were long out of style, because I didn't like anything making my hips look fuller. But it was a good change, I still look very sleek, and now much more modern. But I guess I always feel a little schlumpy in sweaters unless they're SKIN-TIGHT.

I'm trying to think of my ideal wardrobe would look like, without the practical considerations of the day to day. I think I'm leaning these power femme and hard femme looks. Professional, high-fashion-inflected dresses with skirts no longer than the knee. Gothy-punky styles with motorcycle touches-- the structured leather jackets, heavy boots with hardware, pants with the seamed padding at the knee. And there's probably a dash of Victorian/Edwardian in there too— the look is one of the many reasons I'm fascinated with those time periods. I am mildly drawn to menswear references, but more specifically the military-equestrian-tuxedo touches that come from evoking that era. And everything must always be fitted, fitted, fitted, I guess so that boys never forget how lean and hot I am.

Maybe it's time to go through my wardrobe and get rid of everything that doesn't conform to those preferences. I think I keep a lot of it for work, which is hard to translate to my true aesthetic, which is BODYCON and LOOK AT ME all the time. I still wear bare midriffs despite being over thirty because GOD FORBID anybody forget my KILLER ABS. But maybe I'll try just packing away the stuff I feel ehhh about and see if I can manage without it for a while. At least it might make me feel like I'm not settling all the time for looking blah.
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I feel like I’ve just thought of a perfect way to introduce myself to someone who didn’t know me.

This is a short film called “The Tale of Thomas Burberry,” produced as an ad for the famous Burberry London fashion house. A filmic showpiece done up in an expensive, cinematic style with Hollywood actors.



I utterly and completely adore it. It has every piece of my aesthetic.

- Lush, gorgeously realized visuals and cinematography
- A spare, swift-moving and yet still entirely parsable narrative
- Exquisite production design
- Moody emotionality conveyed through facial expressions with minimal dialogue
- The intersection of domestic and grand-scale history; specifically in the Victorian and WWI eras
- The glorification of a visionary creator; specifically a craftsman in the field of sewing and clothing design
- Beautiful, glamorous people
- Gravitas conveyed by the gestalt thereof

Seriously. Throw in a cameo by Chris Evans and a tiny woman who’s mean to everyone and I’d think they made it for me.

And yet… I find it utterly ridiculous. To the point where it makes me laugh. I mean. It takes itself SO SERIOUSLY. The WEIGHT and GRANDEUR and ENORMITY, of what is basically just a really expensive ad for a clothing company. About the WORLD-CHANGING IMPORTANCE of OVERPRICED GABARDINE.

I mean, yes, gabardine is a cool invention, and the trenchcoat made real contributions to history and culture, as the WWI and Shackleton expedition allusions indicate. But come on, dude. You waterproofed coats. Let’s have some perspective here. You cannot sell that on that on the power of Domhnall Gleeson GIVING FACE alone.

And yet. The FACE-GIVING. IN EXQUISITE PRODUCTION DESIGN. I am here for it all day long. The most absurd concentrate of everything I love.

This is who I am as a person. Unironically in love with things I wholeheartedly believe to be ridiculous. Hello, world, nice to meet you.
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I spent all of today picking away at the large task that has been nagging at me for weeks now, the cleaning, purging, and organizing of my living space. I have been in such a brain fog, it's the most productive thing I can manage when I'm struggling to think straight.

I divided things into "task areas" to create discrete benchmarks and break things down into more manageable chunks. There are a lot of them, and some of them are worse than others. I am dreading tackling the low table in my office where I've basically just been tossing all my papers, and my sewing and craft table is an absolute nightmare. But I handled a few of the smaller, less intimidating problems and made some decent progress.

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I started with little my bookshelf, which not only had a handful of books that I was never going to read, had been taken over by programs from old shows I'd seen and didn't really care about keeping anymore. The crap had built up to the point where the little pins holding up the shelf in the middle had broken and it collapsed on top of the lower level. But I realized I had two shelf brackets— less than ideal ones, since they had closet bar holders on them —and if I braced them in properly on the sides, it could support the shelf. I should probably replace the whole thing, since it's just cheap office furniture, but I'm trying to be economical right now. I made sure to put the books I've been lent by people on the outside, so I remember to return them. Apologies if you see something of yours you want back!

You may also notice the rat's nest of old iPhone ear pods on the top. I must test them all to see which of the probably EIGHT OLD PAIRS is worth keeping with lightning adaptors on them, in case I yet again misplace my wireless ones. But for some reason I find the thought of it exhausting, thus having just left them as a nest.

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I also finally found an actual use for my weird little compartmentalized tapestry box. I've had it for a number of years now, having impulse-bought it in a thrift store like many of my dumber possessions, and originally used it to keep sewing supplies. That's my best guess as to what it was originally designed for, and I tried to make use of it as a little mobile sewing station to take on-site when I was doing costume work. But honestly it never really suited that use, even if I wasn't trying to lug it places, and less and less sewing stuff ended up in it over time.

I was contemplating returning it to the thrift store from whence I came when it struck me as a better solution for my makeup that I want to keep but don't use on a regular basis. I think the layout of it serves the shape of the items better, and I believe I'll find it much more convenient to access for the occasions I do need extra brushes or unusual eyeshadow colors. And it freed up a plastic organizer to hold the stuff I want to keep on my vanity table.

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I've also done a little work dealing with the enormous amount of CLOTHES, daily wear, costuming, and otherwise, I currently own. I had to deal with the enormous pile of Mrs. Hawking costumes that was occupying all my office space, but was dreading trying to fit it all into the closets. I stripped out the stuff I borrowed from Jenn, washed it, and packed it away to be returned, but that hardly made a dent in it, seeing as I had to acquire a TON of extra stuff for the new show.

As you can see, my actual clothing takes up only about a quarter of the space in there, as this closet extends a few feet further into the wall on the other side. HAWKING PROPERTIES RUN MY LIFE, Y'ALL. But even though it doesn't look like much, honestly I don't think I like or wear it all— I need to take some time soon to examine if all that stuff makes me feel good to put on, or look like the kind of person I want to be. At least the black bags in the bottom will be gone soon, as they will shortly be returned to Jenn and Circe with the pieces they kindly lent me for the show.

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There was so much that I finally ripped down the bar in the small closet where I keep less frequently-needed costume pieces, plus my dresses. I screwed in reinforced heavy-duty metal holders for the bar to rest on, which appears to have taken care of it. But Clara's astrakhan and Mrs. Hawking's enormous ballgown are pushing it to its limit. I know I need to get rid of stuff I don't use, but some of it is so unique and found in thrift stores it would be impossible to replace if I ever did need it. I wouldn't mind getting rid of regular clothes either, but I actually DO wear all those dresses, and I have a terrible habit of finding cute things in thrift stores because I'm an easy fit.

I also sorted through a drawer that is supposed to hold personal care products and had mostly become a junk draw, tossing out a bunch of shit, as well as consolidated all "random stuff" into a single hatbox's worth. It's a good amount of progress. Of course, I still need to CULL a lot of my things, which I don't feel up to just yet. And of course there's the sewing table and the papers. But every little bit is an improvement, when I'm feeling so crowded out by things.
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IT'S TIME FOR AN UNPOPULAR OPINION RANT, KIDDIES!

Pockets on dresses are pointless. Nothing that's important to carry can be carried comfortably or attractively in a pocket.

FIGHT ME.

Do I want my iPhone crammed in the pocket of my skirt, making a big old bulge and banging around my legs while I walk? NO. If it even fits in there, which it never freaking does. Will my wallet fit in a pocket in a dress? And even if it does, do I want it to look like I'm growing a hip tumor? If the pockets are big, and you can actually store important shit like that, it's so heavy it just drags on your clothes and looks stupid. If they're small, nothing fits! Oh, look, I can put my change in my dress pocket! I'VE SUCCESSFULLY KEPT THIRTY-EIGHT CENTS ON ME! SO USEFUL. I sure hope it doesn't like fall out if I shift myself the wrong way. I CAN WARM MY HANDS IN THERE. On the days where it's warm enough to wear a dress, anyway! MANY USEFULS. MUCH BIG DIFFERENCE.

I guess you could give everything one of those stupid kangaroo pockets like on sweatshirts! But that's EVEN MORE FLATTERING though, right!? I mean, every woman looks better when you strap a bulge on that padded part just underneath the bellybutton. THE ONLY THING THAT WOULD MAKE THAT BETTER IS TO SHOVE STUFF INTO THE BULGE TO MAKE IT EVEN BULGIER. Or just slap one on the front like an apron! Then you can look like you're a six-year-old in a pinafore! With your shit bouncing around on your crotch as you walk, with the attractive bump leading your way!

YAY POCKETS! YOU HAVE ACTIVELY MADE ME UGLIER WHILE HELPING ME IN NO MEANIGNFUL WAY.

So: pockets on dresses? POINTLESS. Bah.
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I've been working out in the gym at Lesley University lately. It's been very convenient, as I can go after I teach my classes, and it has very nice facilities. Mostly I just want to run indoors while it's cold outside, as I tend toward weird asthma-like symptoms when I breath cold air for too long.

As a faculty member, I'm allowed to use the gym for free, which is nice. But I've never seen anyone other than students in there-- at least, never anyone I thought looked like post-college-aged adult. I've decided not to feel weird about it, as I know I'm allowed, but it does seem a bit odd. Where are all the other people like me who can use it as a job perk? Why do I never see them? Is it just the timing? Or are there just not many others who choose to use it?



When I'm teaching I dress very professionally to give myself some authority, but in the gym I wear my typical workout clothes, often just a sports bra and leggings. I dislike seeing students of mine in there, as I don't know if it makes a weird impression. Like, hi, I'm in charge of your grade, and here's my midriff? God, I've been dreading running into one in the locker room. I know I would not have wanted to be around my professor while one of us was changing.

And I wonder how the students who don't know me read me. I've been mistaken for a student at Lesley before, but usually by other employees; only once by an actual student that I know of. Do they assume I'm one of them, or to kids of their age, am I obviously older?

I mean, I know I look good. I am beautiful. Honestly I'm in better shape than most of the students, not just in general but even those I see in the gym. But I wonder how old I read, at least to people younger than me. I turn thirty this year. My skin has been really clear lately, thanks to the excellent acne medication I've been using, but I've begun to worry about the two spots on top of my cheeks that I think are beginning to look sun damaged, or possibly just showing age. I'm afraid my metabolism might slow down at any time.

Only a ridiculous person wants to look twenty forever. But aging is a great fear of mine. So I cling a little bit to things like when I get mistaken for still a college kid. But the truth is, I'm not a kid anymore, and I worry when that's going to catch up with me.

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My stress level is through the roof right now. I'm trying to manage several difficult things (some of which I don't feel able to talk about for various reasons, some I'm just too burnt out to go into in detail) and I feel like everything is teetering on the edge of disaster. I've started to get a little bit of a handle on them, which is somewhat reassuring, but I'm not out of the woods yet.

What amused me is I've always been a productive procrastinator, so in the face of all the stuff I needed to manage that was stressing me out, you know what I did? I found myself drawing designs for a fashion line. I mostly certainly will never have the time or wherewithal to make it. But it's been in my head, at least the ideas of it, for a long time. And it relaxed me to switch gears and be creative on something that wasn't such a struggle. I can't necessarily affect some of the things that are overwhelming me, and I didn't feel in the headspace do any writing, so I found myself doing something completely fresh to try and reset myself.

I actually kind of like what I came up with. I've always wanted to design a high-fashion collection with a distinctly post-apocalyptic aesthetic. I probably never will actually make it-- my sewing skills are probably not quite up to par, and what would I do with it even if I did? --but the ideas never stopped percolating. I drew six looks in a couple of hours. And they weren't bad! They'd need a LOT of editing, I think I combined some of the pieces wrong and some of the foundations are not as carefully chosen as they could be, but the bones I think are there.

I just wish I could draw better. I can see them so clearly in my mind, but I am not very good at expressing them on paper. I think I'd be able to better refine and clarify my ideas if I could visually represent them more accurately, given what a visual learner I am. Maybe I just need to keep drawing them until the practice improves them to the point where they're useful. Again, I doubt I'll ever actually do anything with them. But it was a really refreshing change of pace to try something from a different part of my brain that didn't have so many challenges attached to it.
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My favorite blog these days is Tom and Lorenzo: Fabulous and Opinionated, a style and media criticism site that really attacks the subject from a perspective I can get behind. They are a married couple, one with a background in film and the other in fashion, who do commentary on the world of fashion and have a roster of television that they review. I’m very interested in fashion design, but I get frustrated with the associated toxic consumerism, body image, and superficiality. From Tom and Lorenzo, however, their knowledge and perspective keeps it in the realm of criticism of the art of dressing and clothing design.

Tom Fitzgerald and Lorenzo Marquez are extremely educated and intelligent. They predicate their work on the ideas that clothing is communication, dressing and design are art forms, and different circumstances call for different approaches. They make critiques as to how things look and what a given person might have looked better in, but they openly acknowledge that fashion should be fun and that in the real world people should wear what they want. They never criticize people’s bodies or looks, only how they are styled and how their clothing, hair, and makeup choices affect their appearance. They are aware of issues of class, race, and gender, which influences their perspective, and they make special effort to feature people of color and events that are specific to them.

Where they really shine, in my opinion, is their television crit. Tom in particular— being a nerd with a film degree —is incredibly observant of what’s going on in a particular TV show, and always has something incisive to say about the story meaning, the design choices, and the value thereof. They’re super-good about always taking a show on its own merits, but never dismissing anything just for its genre or conventions. I’d really enjoyed what they’ve had to say on many diverse shows, from Mad Men to American Horror Story to Daredevil. They particularly shine when they’re analyzing well-done costume design. Their series Mad Style, which examines the storytelling contribution of the truly excellent wardrobe on the show Mad Men, is not only freaking fascinating, it really is an education experience on how really narrative costuming is done.

I highly, highly recommend their blog for their intelligence, their perspective, and their taste. Anyone who loves to examine how various types of design speak and tell stories is going to love their work.
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Feeling a bit burnt and overstretched lately, but it's not that bad. Been spending a lot of time lately running from one appointment to the next, which for me is always more exhausting if I have more things to do but I don't have to travel between them. Festival is coming up this weekend, which I'm super excited about, but I'm scrambling to make sure my new game Woodplum House is ready to go. The sheets are done, but there's lots of in-game bits and pieces and environmental stuff to put together, which is tricky. Between work and rehearsals, I'm slammed.

This kind of slight frustration usually comes out in me as some kind of vague discontent I direct at something I have an ability to fix or change, which I think explains why lately I've been super bored and annoyed at my appearance. I hate my hair and all my clothes right now, which likely has more to do with the fact that I can do something about it, but still is annoying me.

I kind of want to change my hair, but I think I would end up hating anything that I did to it. I have recently become weirdly fixated on the idea of getting an undercut, like Natalie Dormer has in the Hunger Games. I don't know why. It probably would look super stupid on me. But I've been thinking how they say everybody should do something crazy with their hair once in their life and I never have. And it's just hair, it grows back. I've even heard if you do it right you can make it so you can have enough hair to flip it down over the shaved part so you don't see it all the time. But my wardrobe is definitely not badass to be compatible with a look like that. And it'd probably look stupid, the idea of is unbearable to me and my Narcissus-like self-obsession.

The obvious response is, of course, "Why don't you just change it to a more conventional hairstyle?" Frankly because I'm concerned anything as simple as cutting it short would make me look like a soccer mom-- dorky, unflattering, with the air that you've given up. See above, Narciussus-like obsession with my own image. I guess there's dyeing it, but I'm generally not a fan of how non-professional dye jobs come out, and the salon ones are very expensive, not only to get but to maintain. I'm not sure any other hair color would suit me anyway; I have very classic fair-skinned brunette coloring.

I also want to throw out all my clothes. Recently I started a joke with myself, when I found myself getting dressed in the morning and not being totally happy with my look, "Well, today's not the day I'd like to run into Chris Evans, but it'll do," playing on the fact that he's from the area and occasionally returns to visit. But now it basically just feels like I'm embarrassed to be seen at all. Yes, not everything needs to be the gorgeous but low key, effortlessly chic but simple, not trying to hard but still totally sexy ensemble I would choose to win the heart of my celebrity crush, but I just hate everything and want to replace it all. Unfortunately that's also too expensive a proposition of me.

The wardrobe thing at least is very likely related to the fatigue of winter clothes, and feeling completely bored of all the layers and sweaters and stuff I've been forced to wear to keep warm. Once the weather really changes and I get to wear cute stuff I haven't touched in ages, I might cheer up. That would be nice, as my pocketbook would not like me to pitch out everything I own right now.
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I am one of those people who thinks it's a shame that there is no real "dressing up" anymore. Mostly I think it's a good thing that in our daily lives we're allowed more freedom of expression in how we dress, and that we're not always being held to some rigorous arbitrary standard. But I do wish there were, in addition to that freedom, more occasions where it was expected and normal to dress according to formal rules. I love the way people, specifically men, look in formalwear, and there's just no occasion to ever wear black or white tie anymore. It's just so striking, so attractive. It lends an air of elegance, power, taste, discernment, and it looks so damn good.

Last year, the Met Gala theme was white tie. It was one of the few places outside of Downton Abbey one could actually see real people in white tie. Honestly most people didn't wear anything close to it. The handful of people who did didn't always execute it traditionally, and the aesthetic effects were variable. But the one person EVERYONE was talking about, as not only having nailed it, but having knocked it out of the park, was Benedict Cumberbatch.

Now I'm no Benedict Cumberbatch fangirl. I think he's charming and talented, but I really don't like how he's freaking everywhere, even in roles he's not suited for. I get how he's attractive but he doesn't really do it for me. But have you ever seen him in what he wore to the 2013 Met Gala? It's quite possibly the most exquisite white tie ensemble I've ever seen.

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As I said, I'm a Downton Abbey fan, so I have a fondness and a familiarity for men who look GOOD in white tie. I still keep every image from the couture men's formalwear shoot the male actors did a couple years back on my iPad. They all look hot, though most of the articles have some kind of modern twist to them. But Benedict's here is so perfectly styled, so carefully composed, so exquisitely tailored that it makes for a sort of ur-example of a classic ideal. It flatters his figure, and the details are so thoughtfully chosen-- the exact distance of the waistcoat below the cutaway, the single Albert watch chain, the perfect length of the trousers. And it SO technical and correct, going back to the earliest codifications of the style. They throw the word "timeless" around, especially when it comes to the varying levels of men's formalwear, but dressed like this, Benedict could walk into a ballroom at any minute going back to 1870, and every woman's head would turn and murmur, "Who. Is. That?"
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Body positivity is a weird thing with me. I tend to have a pretty good self-image, and through rigorous mental retraining I'm learning not to apply my crazy ideas to anyone else's body, but I have a hard time letting go of them when it comes to my own. Sometimes my crazy comes out in weird ways.

A few years back, during a period where peak depression intersected badly with a much more sedentary schedule, and I gained a small but noticeable amount of weight. It wasn't obvious to most people, but it made it so my clothes didn't fit. I had an incident where I popped a button off of a pair of jeans due to being too big for them that really left me upset. I should have just thrown them away, but I stuffed those jeans in a draw in a rage and tried to forget they existed.

I slimmed back down relatively soon after that, and all of my old clothes fit again, including those jeans. It's very satisfying to me that I can now fit my hand inside the waistband where once I wasn't even able to close them. I put a new button on them, but because the old one tore up the placket so much, it's probably not going to stay attached much longer. So they're kind of a pain to wear. But I keep them, I keep wearing them, instead of throwing them away. Because to get rid of them would be to admit they DEFEATED ME. And my crazy WON'T ALLOW THAT.
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I'm in the hotel room right now, trying to use the couple of hours I have before Joe's wedding gets going to get something done. The bridal party is all off getting photos taken. Bernie's the best man, and it's very nice to see him in a tuxedo. He's usually so resistant to dressing up, but here he is in a suit with a real tie and regular people dress shoes. The fit is not great, sadly-- I love his V-shaped, boxer-built upper body, but it is rare enough that a tuxedo rental is unlikely to be able to show it off to best advantage. :-P Still, he looks pretty good; I'll have to come home with pictures of my own.

Having a bit of a hard time focusing, but I've got so many things on my plate right now I'm trying not to waste the time. I need to get ready myself at some point, and I expect that to take a while.
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I’ve been resisting it for some time, but I think I really do need to redesign the dress in The Tailor at Loring’s End.

As I’ve mentioned, my big inspiration for the look of it was the green dress Keira Knightley wore in Atonement, specifically the long, straight silhouette and the hip swag. They don’t often these days design really iconic dresses for movies anymore—not like they did for the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly —and I thought that was the only such example to come out of the movies in years. If this movie got made, I would want this dress to be iconic in that way, so that people remembered it and saw it as a tribute to that classic sort of costume design tradition. “The Bethany Loring dress, in cornflower blue, with lily shapes beaded on the bodice.” I was even pleased when I realized that what I was imagining was roughly appropriate for the 1930s, given that most of Tailor takes place in 1934.

image

What I hadn’t taken into account, however, was the fact that the other part of Tailor takes place back in 1917— and the dress was actually designed back then. Which made my mental image of it totally wrong for the era in which it was made. This frustrated me, as I was actually pretty attached to my mental image, but it was just too far off even for artistic license. I ignored it for a long time, as I didn’t want to deal. But now that I’m writing a treatment for Tailor, the problem jumps out at me again.

Fortunately, since writing it I’ve become a fan of things like Downton Abbey, which as given me more of an eye for the look and design style of 1910s gowns. I think I can reasonably translate my vision of the dress into something that wouldn’t look totally, utterly inconceivable for the time. Especially since the major design elements I’m imagining— a cowled overlay on the neckline, a beaded bodice, and the Atonement-inspired hip swag —all could be reasonably included on a 1910s evening dress.

Of course this is all a pretty minor thing. If the movie ever got made, even in my wildest dreams, an actual costume designer would be making those decisions instead of me. Still, the design elements are referenced in the script, and some of them are even plot-relevant. To a certain extent, there would be a need to interpret my vision. So I’m glad I’ve finally come around to the changes it would be necessary to make.
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My dress for A Turn on the Radiance Rose arrived!


I used my usual trick of searching on eBay for a dress with the appropriate style for the period. I did a lot of research for the right look, both for this and because I'll be costuming a production of Chicago for this spring. I actually had a bit of a tough time finding this one. I wanted something very fancy, bright and beaded, but all the best options were way out of my price range. I also wasn't sure about the sizing for period-appropriate silhouette reasons. You'll notice that the fit is a touch baggy, certainly looser than I usually like. My personal aesthetics tend to a much more form-fitting silhouette. But in the 1920s the preferred shape was very lean and straight up and down. Representative design details are drop waists and a completely undefined bodice-- the breasts are as obscured as possible. So I picked a dress probably one size too big for me to make my shape seem very straight. It's a hard silhouette to wear, as it hides the definition in the waist and can make one look tubular. Even the very lean women who wear them on Downton Abbey look a little on the boxy side. It's also kind of an unusual color, this blend of sea blue and peach. Not to my usual tastes, but it's certainly eye-catching and interesting, which I tend to look for when I costume for larps. If I need a dress for a game, I always go for colorful and attention-grabbing if I have a choice. I am reasonably happy with this look, especially the drapey detail on the bodice. The color and the fit combine to mean it's probably not my most flattering look, but I think I look nice for the purpose.

I also have a rhinestone tiara I ordered still on its way. All that remains now is to figure out how to style my long hair in such a way as would be appropriate for the 1920s, when short styles like the bob were fashionable, and the right shoes. I think some nude heels of some kind would be right; too bad my character shoes are black instead of tan. Hoping I can find an appropriate thrift store option that won't be too difficult to wear.

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Had a lovely afternoon crafting in the company of Charlotte and Gigi. I started on a project I've been turning over in my mind for a while now. I've always been a fan of the "post-apocalyptic" aesthetic, where everything's hard-edged, deconstructed, and hacked together from other things. I wanted to make a sort of post-apocalyptic jacket, with a high-fashion twist. I want it to be leather, cobbled together with pieces taken from thrifted jackets, with lots of buckles and straps. I'm not sure what I want every part of it to look like, but I knew how I wanted the sleeves. To that end, I bought a bunch of brown and black leather belts from the thrift store.


I hung one off of each of my dress form Adelaide's shoulders. I cut a big wide belt in half to make sleeve heads. Then I measured the circumference of my arms at the widest point-- a little over ten-inches. So I linked all the belts together by the buckles, punching holes where necessary, and cut ten eleven-inch lengths. Then I attached them temporarily to the belts hanging off the shoulders with masking tape at even intervals, with the lowest ones about where cuffs should be. I like idea of air between each straps, the sort of faux-sleeves they make. It won't be the warmest or most practical jacket to wear, but it doesn't need to be. It's FASHION.


I haven't decided how to attach them permanently yet. My sewing machine is technically rated for leather, but the belts are awfully thick. I may end up using Barges, the leather epoxy recommended to me by excellent resource thistothat.com. Also I may end up buying more belts and adding more straps into each sleeve. But I like how it looks at this point.

I'm still not sure what the rest of the jacket will look like. It's crossed my mind to try and make it entirely out of belts somehow. But I may also cut pieces from preexisting leather jackets and reconstitute them with these sleeves. But it's a start! And it's nice to shift to doing something crafty.

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Who has two thumbs and found a white silk-linen Giorgio Armani suit in her size for twelve dollars in a thrift store?


HELLS YEAH.

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So I sketched another attempt at a designed blouse. This is a case where the shape of the garment is fairly conventional, but it's the piecing together of the textile choices that is supposed to make it unique.


To reprint my notes on the design:

Materials:
- navy, purple, and white plaid shirting
- solid navy shirting

A fitted button-up blouse with a mandarin collar and cap sleeves, no cuffs. It is pieced together in quarters. The front right and back left quarters are done in the plaid on the straight grain. The front left quarter and the left sleeve are done in the plaid on the bias. The back right and right sleeve are in the solid navy. The mandarin collar is three-quarters straight-grain plaid with the right front quarter of the solid navy. The hem has a short version of traditional shirttails. I originally thought maybe there should be narrow side panels of the solid, but I think maybe they're not necessary with this quartering. The buttons can be navy or a contrast, maybe as pop of a new color.

I actually really like this, and I think it's something I would actually wear. It's probably not too far outside my capacity to sew, either. I could probably find a pattern that was close to this and alter it to suit my needs. I just wonder if I could find a plaid like I imagine, in navy, white, and purple, and then a solid in a matching navy. That might be the most challenging part.

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